There is a particular kind of fashion designer who does not just make clothes. She makes declarations. Desirée Iyama is one of them. And with her Spring/Summer 2026 collection titled “Everything in Time,” the Lagos-based womenswear brand has delivered its most expansive creative statement yet, one that is equal parts romantic, daring, and culturally rooted.
Founded in 2016 (with an initial start in 2012 and a major relaunch in 2020), the brand grew out of the designer’s lifelong relationship with fashion, nurtured by a mother and grandmother who were both designers. After an early hiatus to upskill on the business side and rediscover her creative identity, Desirée relaunched the brand into the version the industry recognises today, one defined by bold yet romantic silhouettes, a commitment to slow fashion, and a deeply African understanding of the female form.
The SS26 collection, reviewed by Vanguard Allure in March 2026, stretches across five distinct looks, each one reinforcing the brand’s signature DNA while pushing into new territory with its choice of fabrics, detailing, and silhouette play.
Look One: The Beehive Gown
The collection opens with a statement peplum gown that the Vanguard Allure reviewer memorably nicknamed the “beehive.” Crafted in a soft fabric in shades of yellow and cream, the gown features an intricate surface texture and a sleeveless structure with dramatic folds at the lower body. The detail that seals the theme is a bee embroidery on the left side of the chest, an intentional artistic flourish that pulls the entire visual concept together.
The reviewer described the design as highly versatile, noting that it could work across runway settings, events, corporate functions, and ceremonial occasions. The only reservation raised was that the dramatic fold at the lower body might feel excessive for clients who prefer understated dressing, with a suggestion that a long-sleeved version and a flattened three-layer hem alternative could broaden the dress’s audience considerably.
Look Two: The Army Green Mermaid Gown
The second look shifts into something altogether more sleek. An army green gown in a stretchy, breathable fabric that carries African print detailing across its surface. The upper body is structured to shape the wearer into an hourglass figure, while drop sleeves and a string across the neckline keep the bodice firm and intentional. A mermaid finish from the hips down to the ankle completes a look that is simultaneously bold and wearable.
The reviewer’s only concern was practical: the fabric’s low absorption rate could make the gown uncomfortable in Nigeria’s humid seasons. A weather-friendly alternative fabric version was recommended to make the design accessible across climates and occasions throughout the year.
Look Three: The Peach Bridal Pairing
The third look arrives in pairs, and both gowns make the same unmistakable argument. They are bridal-worthy. The matching peach pieces use the same fabric but are styled differently, with the first being more fitted and embroidered with flowers made from the same material. The second is more breathable, with a ruffle at the hips and a softer, princess-leaning silhouette.
The reviewer noted that these pieces carry a quiet eloquence, recommending the addition of a mini jacket or hand gloves as optional accessories to give clients more styling range and inject a touch of 1980s and 1990s nostalgia into an already striking look.
Look Four: The Metallic Duo
If the peach looks spoke softly, the fourth look shouts. Two outfits in metallic or foil fabric arrive side by side, one in orange and one in blue, both with shiny reflective surfaces that command any room they enter. The orange look pairs a sleeveless blouse with a long fitted skirt, while the blue version is a structured mini peplum dress embroidered with small blue fabric petals.
The reviewer praised the creative use of contrasting fabric textures and the way the blue dress in particular balances firmness in the upper body with allure at the hem. The practical note raised here was the same as before: the foil fabric limits the wearer to specific climates and events. The recommendation was for the brand to produce the same designs in climate-friendly fabric alternatives so that clients can choose based on occasion and season.
Look Five: The Yellow Feather Finale
The fifth look closes the collection with the most theatrical energy of all. Two yellow outfits, one a mini gown with feathers at the hem and the other a more modest layered piece combining hoops, flattened cuts, and a mini peplum, bookend the collection with a confident visual statement.
The feather detail on the first dress is particularly striking, transforming what would otherwise be a simple mini gown into a runway moment. The second dress was noted for how easily it allows movement, a quality that is rarely taken for granted in designs this detailed. The reviewer’s suggestions were minimal: slightly more room in the chest area of the first gown and a slight toning down of the layered bottom on the second.
Taken as a whole, “Everything in Time” is a collection that earns its title. The brand’s pieces are often described as edgy yet fluid, creating a unique and captivating style. Through its distinctive designs and commitment to local production, Desirée Iyama has played a significant role in shaping the modern landscape of Nigerian and African fashion.
The designer herself has spoken about how African women’s silhouettes directly shape her design decisions.
“I adopt our African silhouettes. Western clothes are freer for everyone to wear, but here in Africa, we pay more attention to womanly shapes. There is a certain hourglass shape you would have just from wearing our dresses.”
That philosophy is visible in every piece of the SS26 collection. From the feather-trimmed hem of the yellow finale to the bee embroidery on the opening gown, Desirée Iyama is not simply chasing trends. She is building a language that is distinctly her own, and with “Everything in Time,” she has spoken it more fluently than ever before.